When it comes to pasta al pomodoro, mother knows best according to Mario Matassa. Follow this simple recipe for the perfect classic Italian dish…
Words and photo © Mario Matassa
When I was a child, my mother told me that I could start an argument in an empty room. Mothers, of course, tend to exaggerate their sons’ superpowers.
That said, while sipping on a much-needed digestive after lunch at my local bar, with just three words, I was able to set about a dozen Italian men in the right direction.
“Pasta al pomodoro!”
Throw it in casually, like a passing comment of no real significance, and watch the sparks fly.
I think my exact words were: “Gigi (the bar owner) made a pasta al pomodoro today. It was very good.” That’s all it takes.
The ensuing argument started good-naturedly. Poor Gigi, my host, was bombarded by a wave of questions.
Fresh pasta or dried? Passata, tinned tomatoes or fresh? Oregano or basil? With or without garlic? Parmesan or grana?
As opinions were exchanged, these questions developed into a more heated discussion with lots of arm-waving and head-nodding, all of which was underpinned by the self-assumption of everyone involved that only ‘their’ mamma or nonna knows the secret to perfect pasta al pomodoro and everyone else simply needed to be put straight.
I left after 40 minutes with the argument still in full flow. I needed a siesta. I could always come back later, after I’d slept.
The only thing that I can say for certain is that as far as pasta al pomodoro is concerned, the dozen or so men at the bar (who are probably still shouting at Gigi) are all wrong.
My mother knew the secret to the best pasta al pomodoro. I got it from her, just as she got it from her mother. And here it is…
Mamma’s basic pasta al pomodoro | Pasta al pomodoro
➤ SERVES: 4
➤ PREPARATION: 15 minutes
➤ COOKING: 1 hour 20 minutes
➤ VEGAN
Ingredients:
- 400g spaghetti
- 800g tinned peeled plum tomatoes
- 1 clove of garlic, peeled
- extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tbsp dried oregano
- half tsp sugar
- grated parmesan cheese (or vegan alternative)
- sea salt
Method:
- Add the garlic and a few tablespoons of olive oil to a deep-sided heavy-based pan and heat gently for about 2 minutes until the garlic is just starting to take on some colour.
- In the meantime, pour the tomatoes into a large bowl and chop as well as you can with a knife. Add the tomatoes to the pan. Season with a teaspoon of salt. Cover the pan, bring gently to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes. Add the sugar and the oregano and a few tablespoons of water. Stir the sauce and continue cooking uncovered on a very low heat (more of a murmur) for about another hour until the sauce is beginning to reduce. During this time do not be tempted to stir.
- Once the sauce is ready, bring a large pot of water to the boil, add salt and cook the pasta until just al dente. Cooking times will vary according to the pasta used. Drain the pasta and then return to the pot. Drizzle with a little olive oil and then add a medium-sized ladle of sauce. Toss well with a large cooking fork. Divide the pasta equally into 4 bowls, add another few tablespoons of sauce to each bowl and then sprinkle to taste with parmesan. Serve immediately.
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